10 Best Tried and True Japanese Cleansing Oils in 2022 (Beauty Expert-Reviewed)

Cleansing oils are the perfect tool for removing makeup quickly without having to rub the skin. Cleansing oils can trace their lineage to Japanese makeup artist Shu Uemura, who popularized cleansing oils in the 1960s after returning to Japan from Hollywood.

As the name implies, the main ingredient in cleansing oil is, well, oils. Each cleansing oil can feel different depending on what type of oil it uses as its main ingredient. 

However, some cleansers can be too strong and can actually strip away too much moisture from your skin, resulting in dryness. Additionally, the loose texture of oil cleansers can make them difficult to use, since they can drip easily from your hands.

Keep on reading to find out how to choose the best Japanese cleansing oil for your skin type!

Here are the four major points to look out for.

As mentioned earlier, there are a lot of different types of cleansing oils. How each product feels is different depending on the type of oil it uses as its main ingredient, so we recommend choosing an oil type based on your skin type and feel.

Oil cleansers are usually made up of hydrocarbon oils, ester oil, naturally occurring oils and fats (usually plant-derived), or a combination of the three. The main properties of a cleanser are determined by the first oil on the list—that is, whatever type of oil is present in the largest quantity.

If any of the following is at the top of the ingredients list, you’ll know you have a mineral oil cleanser on your hands.

• Mineral Oil
• Isohexadecane
• Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
• Squalane

Esters aren’t quite as strong as mineral oils, but they are still effective cleansers. Their low viscosity gives them a refreshing feel. There are quite a few ester-based products with varying degrees of cleansing ability and texture, and many don’t require double-cleansing—that is, you don’t need to follow up with a face wash—which can save you time. 

Another benefit of ester oils is that it’s less likely to oxidize, meaning that it’s also less likely to contribute to acne.

• Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
• Isopropyl Palmitate
• Ethylhexyl Palmitate
• Isopropyl Myristate
• Triethylhexanoin
• Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
  

• Olive Oil
• Sunflower Seed Oil
• Meadowfoam Oil
• Macadamia Nut Oil
• Corn Germ Oil
• Rice Bran Oil
• Avocado Oil

Common Examples of Ingredients too Harsh for Sensitive Skin

• Alcohol (Ethanol)
• Synthetic Perfumes/Fragrances
• Synthetic Dyes
• Preservatives (Benzoic Acid, Parabens)

Note that not all parabens are irritating. However, items that contain a large amount of parabens or parabens that are highly antibacterial can sometimes act as triggers when applied to sensitive skin.

※Japanese prices for some of the products are given; they’ve merely been converted into USD for easy viewing.

We tested the cleansing oils out on various types of makeup. We then applied the products and made note of how well they removed them. 

An expert was then asked to look over the ingredients with us and judge how gentle they were. Based on their performance on our tests, we ranked the top 10 Japanese oil cleaners available online.

Firstly, we tested the most important part when considering an oil cleanser; how well it removes makeup.

We applied makeup to artificial skin, then used the cleansing oils to check how much makeup it could remove. We blended the cleansing oil with makeup for 20 seconds, wiped it off with a damp cotton pad, and evaluated the results on a five-point scale.

• Liquid Foundation
• Concealer
• Waterproof eyeliner
• Waterproof mascara

Next, we asked our expert, scientific beautician Kaori, to check the ingredients that are essential to choosing a cleansing oil. 

Specifically, we had her look for the following points:

• If the ingredients can offer a strong cleansing power without irritating the skin too much
• If the products feature oils that have high beautifying properties

Note that unlike cosmetics, manufacturers aren't required to label all the ingredients for quasi-drugs, which categorically fall between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals in Japan, and it's mostly up to the manufacturer whether they decide to label some ingredients or not. Therefore, we had Kaori evaluate only the ingredients that were listed on the label.

In this test, we found that products that balance ingredients that both offer decent cleansing abilities and skin conditioning properties were rated higher. 

We also found that hydrocarbon oil-based products tended to rank higher in terms of cleansing ability. Ester oils, natural fats and oils, as well as silicone-based products that are made in combination with several other ingredients were also given high scores.

However, products that use natural fats and oils were rated higher for their skin conditioning properties.

Finally, products that primarily focus on makeup removal had fewer oils that help condition the skin, and they were outranked by other products.

Here are just a few tips and tricks.

If you feel like your cleanser’s not getting to all your makeup, try switching up how you apply it. Start off by blending product into areas where your makeup is the thickest—namely around your eyes and mouth. When you try to cleanse your entire face at once, you end up mixing all that gunk together, which may result in more residue.

Here are some common questions people have regarding oil cleansers. If you've ever wondered about these, you're not alone!

While there's nothing preventing you from using oil cleansers when you have acne, make sure that when you use an oil cleanser while you have acne or are experiencing other inflammations, be careful you don't rub those areas. 

Moreover, if you're experiencing a breakout, wearing makeup can take a toll on your skin. If you insist on wearing makeup, make sure that you don't put on heavy makeup to minimize the burden on your skin.

As we mentioned earlier, there’s typically six steps to a Japanese skincare routine. You use cleanser to rid your face of makeup. You then get rid of any residue and extra sebum with a face wash, prime with a toner, treat with a serum, moisturize with a lotion, and cap off with a cream. Learn more about some of the other products below.

Author: Rio Sasaki/Translation: Jasmine Li, Mitsuki Nagasawa, Mana Yoshida

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